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The RTF Wiki



MultiWii home Page -  - MultiWii forums

 Source Code & GUI - The code source is stored on a google code repository:

MultiWii WinGUI is a .NET based configuration and GCS interface for the famous MultiWii multicopter controller software.

It does not intend to replace the original MultiWiiConf utility, but trying to offer a richer user experience by sacrificing multi platform capabilities.

Googel Chrome Extension - Cool crossplatform configurator -Configurator app build primarily for baseflight flight software.


Stick combination summary (Print this page! study!)

READ AND PRINT ME!   and  Stick combinations "quick" 

ALL boards usb DriverUSB Driver Download Here ;

Motor PINOUT ;  MEGA Motor layout - Here; Pro-Mini Motor layout Here : MEGA Motor layout 2 - Here


Radio Settings 

No file for a DX6i; Here is pictures of the screens you need to fly 

SpectrumRC files! load it on the SD card, import, bind and fly. 

Downloads: DX7s File ; DX8 File; DX9 File ; DX18 File 

 Quick "HOW To RE-Flash' your board back to default .PDF Download

 Quick ""how to" for the mac down at the bottom of this page

Spectrum setup videos at the bottom of this  page: 

Futaba Guys please watch this video !  video of Futaba T14SG radio setup 

TRIcopter SETUP video with flip 1.5 -  video of flip 1.5  specific to the tricopter

FLIP 1.5 For Dummies  -  everything one needs to know to setup and tune 

How to Setup KV OSD MinimOSD- video with "Naze32" but this is the same Flip32

Flip32 or Flip32+ setup/help video How to set up a Return to Home Failsafe - video is different board, but all the info is 100% the same

RTH Failsafe - How to set up a Return to Home Failsafe

Forum Threads

MultiWii PRO 1.0 Flight Controller w/ GPS Option 

MWC Thread - MegaPirate code thread - Last thread

MultiWii PRO 2.0 Flight Controller w/ GPS Option - thread for MultiWii

MultiWii PRO 3.0EZ Flight Controller w/ GPS Option

The Flip Pro MWC Flight contoller

The Flip 1.5

older HISTORY THREADs - rainy day reading  -original MultiWiiCopter thread Old "HOWTO" overview  - Quadrocopter WiiCopter -WiiCopter "Config &Settings" - BuildLog  ArduWiino NK - PID tuning theory


 Quick Start

  1. Download PC 32bit(even if you run 64bit) or Mac OSX DOWNLOAD HERE - install on your PC or Mac - then shut down fully - wait 1 min - restart to activate the USB driver
  2. Download Arduino 1.0.3 Here - this is important for PC users, even if you don't use it as it contains the driver libraries - different version - each works with Mac, MacBook or PC win 7/8
  3. Browse our custom sketches on your boards product page.  Download the driver, and GUI from dropbox
  4. Install JAVA from HERE - then restart your PC/Mac - connect the FC Micro USB to your PC USB . GUI requires Java is installed and running - 
  5. Download the match v2.3 GUI java app HERE - Open the file called MultiWiiConf.exe (PC ; or (Mac OSX)  
  6. Connect your USB  to the FC 
  7. Turn on your Radio Tx transmitter .  Start MultiwiiConf. or wungui
  8. Some Receivers my need full 5v from UBEC to power 
  9. Select the com port 
  10.  Wait 5 secs ; then press START
  11. Wait another 3secs and press READ
  12. Calibration in the GUI - The FC  arrives with GYRO and Acc already calibrated - sitting on your desk the ACC numbers should be approx 0/0/250 - if the board is tilt a little they will be similar to this 16/-19/252 - be careful not to un-do whats already done by clicking calibrate wildly or randomly ! - The IMU arrow faces forwards - The Gyro and the Acc can be re-calibrated (in the future if needed) in the GUI by holding the IMU at 0.00° level - motionless for 5 secs - click-pressing CALIB_ACC - not moving - after about 6 secs you will see the Acc data will reset and show 0/0/250 approx 
  13.  Press CALIB_MAG - in the next 60 secs the entire Quad needs to be rotated one turn on X,Y & Z axis within 60secs of pressing CALIB_MAG ( this is best done with the stick commands)
  14. Now look at the top right Blue-on light Blue-bars - each one will move in conjunction with your RC Tx - when sticks are centred the reading should be 1500 . When the throttle is placed at idle/off - the THROT should bead <1100 usually 1090 approx - at full the throttle should read 1905 approx - also check the other three sticks are 1095/1500/1905 approx - if you purchased your radio from us this is already done for you.
  15. Set your Tx to ACRO (basic Airplane) mode - set PPM (not PCM), Activate Ch5 (Gear-Mode) Read your Tx/Rx product manuals 
  16. Set your Reverse:  for spectrum THR=NORMAL ;AIL=REVERSE ;ELE=NORMAL;RUD=REVERSE (the light blue bars  MUST move in the same direction as the stick you are moving - If they do not then REVERSE that Ch in your Tx.  So if you move the throttle stick up - then the blue Throttle bar should move up.  If you move your rudder right then the YAW bar should move right)
  17.  Set the Tx stick ranges (done on transmitter) - "End points/travel" Setup mainly involves the accurate checking or adjusting of your RC Tx - called Transmitter calibration !  DO NOT SKIP THIS first STEP - the very first thing you must do for your first board is Calibrate your Transmitter to give accurate PWM output range - every transmitter is slightly different - Create a new model memory on the Tx and Call it MWC. you will see that changes made on the Tx menu are sent to the FC via your Rx - and actual critical uSEC readings - 1015/1500mid/1985 can be set. If you cannot get it exact then use 1000/1500/2000.  Flight controller is a digital interface and the software running invisibly inside requires very specific digital PWM uSEC numbers to hover 100% auto-level, arm, disarm etc.  So this may seem a bit weird but you will be using/pressing buttons on your Tx whilst your eyes are looking at your PC or Mac.  So move all sticks to the center - set all Tx trims to neutral - Now use SUB TRIM MENU on your Tx to set all mid points to 1500 on these blue bars.  Then move, one at a time,move each stick to the low position and set 1015; then move each stick/switch to the high position and set 1985.  Then go back and check all your midpoints are still 1500    Do this for all sticks and switches.  (see videos below)
  18. There are 3 windows in the GUI - - Check settings, change if needed
  19.  Arm by rudder max right while throttle min.
    - Disarm by rudder max left while throttle min
    - If the quad flips on motor start up, you've plugged motors in incorrectly.
    - If it doesn't fly (no lift), you've got the props installed incorrectly.
  20. - Keep props off until ready for first flight.
    - Calibrate ESCs, check motor wiring for correct rotation... see diagrams on bag or website.
    - Make sure to connect motors correctly to flight controller, should be a label with diagram on the antistatic bag or check the product page for links and diagrams
  21. IF the GUI cannot read USB after connected. - Quit the GUI and restart if nessary - If you see any unusual settings after calibrations - always restart the GUI and re-power the FC - if you see something strange - STOP - power cycle the FC and re-start the GUI - FIRST - then investigate further.
  22.  Changes to the GUI switches - a white square means "active" - grey means inactive - click the upper left side of any square to activate it - then to save that change, press WRITE. To change the value of a number - Click->drag it with your mouse. Then press WRITE.
  23.  Advanced users - if you are doing Arduino code commenting - Always clear EEPROM twice, if/before loading new  specific sketch code. Beginners - NEVER reload code - chances are the code is wrong and you will create problems you cannot solve.
  24.  Keep your PROPS OFF - not installed - until you are fully conversant/understand in full the functions of your Tx in full including TRAV (end Points), the arm and disarm procedures -  realise that for skiping or out-of-order set-up steps or moving sticks, or even static -  PROPS may start at anytime without warning.  Never install props prior to calibration of the ESC and testing the gyro orientation, and arm/disarm testing of the board - YOU are responsible - make sure your actions and your Copter is safe.  Never ASSUME the props will not start -removing the props removes the risk.
  25. Motor conections and rotation directions - The engine numbers relate to the small white text (called silk) printed on the bottom or top side of the Flight controllers next to the pins for the ESC - to reverse the direction of a motor swap any 2 of the 3 motor wires over.
  26.  If the ESC's beep-non-stop then they are not connected to the PARIS board ESC pins or the Rx is incorrectly connected or the Rx/PARIS sees you do not have your throttle to zero.
  27. If your copter goes out of radio-range it may cause harm - if still powered - Take the precaution to program in the FAILSAFE condition to protect people/property
  28. Always maiden on default PIDs' - If the copter is not almost perfect on default PID's then DO NOT go straight to altering the PID's!  Copters require good quality ESCs such as F-20 fire or blue ice then do full calibrations of all the ESCs, the correct timing set/programmed into the ESCs and lastly good quality wiring and soldering (not 3.5mm press fit connectors if possible ) - Use FLUX PASTE to complete all soldered wires. 
  29. If your getting squirrelly behavior after updating code - and it seems very unusual to you as an experienced flyer - (like an alien flying your copter not you ) - it possible the eeprom is corrupted - so just clear it out - clearing the eeprom - note down your old PIDS or do a screen capture of them - Fire up Arduino to load MultiWii 2.3 Arduino>File>Examples>EEPROM>eeprom_clear   ; upload

Arming - Learn to recognize that your Copter is ARMED.   Hold right Yaw (or right cyclic) for 1 sec - you will see the LED come on - stays on SOLID

Disarming - Learn to DISARM the ESC's before touching or approaching the Copter ESC's/Motors can start suddenly and the props can cut fingers and eyes - permanent injuries!! so With THRO OFF ; Hold the YAW stick LEFT for 1 sec ; then the CPU LED will go OUT and stay out

Gyro Calibration - Disarm the copter (see above) ; Place the Copter on a perfectly LEVEL LZ - it must be completely static - Check all Tx Trims =  neutral - Stand back - With THRO off, Hold the YAW LEFT and the Cyclic stick Back for 1 Sec ;  release - you will see the  LED blinking fast for a few secs then go out 

Accelerometer (Acc) Calibration - The FC is calibrated before shipping, at 25°C - However  if you Flights are at a different temp a temp bias can be introduced need a re-cal, so for your Ops temp set the Copter level 0.00° Confirm the DISARMED LED is OFF - Hold Full THRO/YAW LEFT and the Cyclic stick Back for 1 Sec ;  release - you will see the GREEN LED blinking fast for a few secs then go out - The Acc is now calibrated for LEVEL mode (at this ambient temperature)

Accelerometer (Acc) 2° Trimming - Also called auto-LEVEL trimming - Land - The final ACC trimming procedure is this -DISARM - the Green LED will go OFF) Move the THRO to the 'Learn Position - full up) - in this example the copter was moving back and right - so ; using stick-banging - move the cyclic (right stick) up once (led blinks) - then left once (led blinks) - these alterations are saved to the CPU memory.  ARM again - hover and repeat the process until the copter hovers 'level'.  Each Stick-bang = 0.1°

Flight MODES

ACRO - Gyros only mode - sometimes called full-manual mode or acro mode - in this mode the gyros prevent disturbance from wind and turbulence but do NOT interfere with pilot inputs - its a crisp and responsive mode - absolute best mode for amazing flying

ARM - we recommend not arming by switch unless your running a Tricopter 

ANGLE - - self leveling mode -  activates the Accelerometer - Great for learning FPV and hovering. You can not Flip this mode- its a required mode for RTH or PTH

HORIZON - new multiWii mode - stable mode - so when the cyclic stick is near the centre the Acc is activated (self leveling) - but when you want to fly fast forward or even do Acrobatic flips and you push the cyclic controls toward the edges - then its gyros only

BARO - First set the aircraft in the hover at 50% throttle - then engage BARO switch - the autopilot will power the motors up/down to hold the Altitude based on barometric pressure - Do NOT take off and fly around on BARO -- if exposed to airflow (no dome is used) then cover the BARO with black felt - this prevent erroneous barometric pressure waves from speed or wind entering the BARO.

MAG - Compass or heading locks yaw in the hover - be sure you have 1500 setup as the RC Tx Rudder ! check your GUI - use manual tilt to trim residual yaw out in early test flights - then when the rudder or yaw stick is centred - engage MAG - this will lock the heading. We don't recommend flying around with MAG on - reason - MAG will lock out if bank angle exceeds 20°. Mag is useful for doing towering climbs or descents where you are flat - and trying to shoot facing one direction - be sure to tune your airframe (by engine inclination) so you have zero latent yaw.

HEADFREE - this requires you mount the MAG - away from all magnetic interference -

HEADADJ - allows you to re-align headfree lock position

GPS HOME - setup /NGLE and GPS home on the same switch position - BARO also if you prefer - then use this to fly home - will return to the position where it was last armed - does NOT control throttle so be sure to use enough power to fly/hover. - it is not fully autonomous and does not control motors - this is a good thing as it allows the pilot to make inputs to avoid obstacles.

GPS HOLD - Sometimes called Loitering - or sky-parking - yes - if you really depend on this type of thing (noobs) then it's going to be better to run the PARIS v5 under

OSD - allows you to toggle OSD on or OFF with a switch in flight.

Changing the Yaw rate to 0.3 increases the turn speed

HEADFREE/CAREFREE - Head-free mode is great for beginners who aren't used to projecting their mind into the plane's perspective. Head free (or Care free) mode uses the compass and your last known position to transform the transmitter stick input from your perspective into the perspective of the copter. For most beginner pilots this is the toughest part, imagining in your minds eye, you are sitting in the copter and facing the same direction. Head-free mode removes this burden! The copter control software, knowing where you are, adjusts the stick input so that roll left is always left on the copter from your perspective and roll right is always right, and the same with the pitch. You take away the notion of a "front" on the copter, there is no front anymore!

  1.  set the copter down you are behind the copter and it‘s front is facing ahead of me in the same direction.
  2. Plug in the quad . Then arm/ At this point the heads-free mode records my position as being behind the copter.
  3. Back up a number of paces staying behind the copter, maknig sure to keep the same direction.
  4. Take off and activate head free mode. . The trick is to never move your feet out of your "headfree- set point". Always keep the system in frount of you at all times!

The AUX Mode Matrix

The 3-way toggle switch is in the top position, then the AUX1 channel in MultiWii GUI shows LOW (1000us), see the Receiver Channels box in the diagram below.   Auto-Level (ANGLE mode) is  enable . Thus in the Flight Mode Matrix below AUX1 has 1 white box in the first column (titled LOW) at the row labeled ANGLE. The 3-way is in the middle position AUX1 shows MID (1500us). HORIZON mode is now enable the white box in the AUX1 second column (MID) at the row labeled HORIZON. With the 3-way at the bottom, AUX1 shows HIGH. I want this to not enable any modes and thus be Acrobat mode.  Clear out any white boxes in the 3rd column (HIGH) of AUX1. Currently The switch in the top/LOW position, ANGLE mode is activated and thus lit green.


Perfecting auto-level performance / How to trim auto-level mode

Auto-level flight requires a properly calibrated accellerometer. The FC's accellerometer is calibrated at the factory but you can also repeat the calibration process in the MultiWii GUI. In any case, a desk or a floor is not perfectly level so some adjustment of this calibration will have to be done in-flight. There is a method to tuning the accellerometer (auto-level) in the field. This must be done after trimming the transmitter though otherwise you are just trying to correct one error with another. So with acc pre-calibrated and your transmitter already trimmed previously in gyro/acro mode do the following:

  1. Enable LEVEL mode using the aux switch on your transmitter. You should have already setup LEVEL mode on one of your AUX channels/switches. 
  2. Arm the copter and take off. Try to maintain level flight, if level is not perfect you will have to counteract the error with some stick input.
  3. Same as with acro try to keep the copter level and note how much roll/pitch stick you need to put in to correct the error.
  4. Now land the copter and disarm motors (throttle all the way back, roll all the way left)
  5. Now with motors disarmed, slowing move throttle all the way to max (motors will not spin if copter is properly disarmed). Move throttle slowly just in case motor disarm failed. With the throttle at maximum, the copter is waiting for command input to adjust the ACC level.
  6. If the copter was pitching forward (going away from you), then:
    • a. Pull full back on the pitch.
    • b.Then return to center
    • c.Repeat a number of times, the more times you repeat the more correction it will make but it only does it in a single small increments for each “full back, and return to center” sequence. Repeating 3-4 times is not really noticeable (only a slight correction). I often have to start with 10-12 increments for the first correction. Then test fly, and repeat the process with another 3-5 increments.
  7. Now you can do the roll, same process:
    • a.All the way left or right, then return to center
    • b.Only do a correction for a single direction at a time…diagonal correction input does not work.
  8. After doing a number of increments for Roll and Pitch. With the P/R stick at center, return the throttle back to full low. Re-arm the motors and test fly. Repeat until the copter maintains level.
  9. Do not do the ACC calibration from MultiWii again or you will lose this calibration. The copter will remember your calibration settings so once trimmed your auto-level should perform perfectly and you won't have to repeat this tutorial until you upgrade your copter Firmware.


In the ACC calibration you want to hold the board very still while the calibration process is performed. With MAG calibration the complete opposite is true, you want to reach every possible orientation possibly within the 30 second calibration time frame. this is the biggest mistake new users make in MAG calibration, they keep the FC perfectly still and 30 seconds later the compass heading starts behaving very strangely.

When you are ready hit the CALIB_MAG button. ( we recomend you do this with Bluetooth or stick commend) DO NOT ATTEMPT WITH A USB CABLE! It will not work well!  This starts the calibration process and you now have 30 seconds to orientation the board in as many positions as possible. Notice the light blinks very fast to indicate the MAG calibration is in progress. The calibration process is not picky as to which way you move about through the different orientations, but here is a good step by step to achieve good calibration:

Begin by rotating the copter 360 degrees passing through North, East, South and West.
Now flip the board over 360 degrees in the roll axis, then undo the flip back to normal.
Now flip the board end-over-end in the pitch axis a complete 360 degrees, then undo the flip back to normal
Now wave the board around in the air as if you were actually flying around outside, back and forth, side to side, up and down.
Stop when the  light stops blinking and returns to normal,
You are now fully calibrated! 

Make sure to not have any ferromagnetic materials with you during calibration, such as keys, Rc Radio or cell phone!

More Quick Tips 

Do not move the model while plugging in the battery and during
the first few seconds after power-up. Gyro must be idle, or else
initial calibration will be wrong. Alternatively, make sure to
execute the “Gyro Calibration” stick sequence prior to arming.

First flight should always be in gyro-only mode. Do not enable auto-level, baro, headfree, etc
If model immediately flips on take off, double-check board orientation (front facing), each
motor number, rotation direction, and type of prop installed.

Trim transmitter once, and never trim in-flight. Connect to GUI,
and subtrim on transmitter until all channels are centered at 1500.
If using Futaba gear, center might be 1520. In that case, set midrc value in config to
1520, then subtrim to center all channels at 1520. Do not use trim in flight for either gyro
or auto-level mode. Use acc-trim function.

Cover the barometer with open-cell foam and keep it away from direct sunlight. Placing the
flight controller in a plastic enclosure of some kind is recommended.

Magnetic Declination -  two ways to find it fast. - very important 

A. Download GeoMag and is free  - find yourself on the map.  at the bottom of the screen it will tell you.

B.  download MultiWii EZ-GUI on your android device, have a look at the GPS dashboard, it shows your current Magnetic Declination to 6 decimal places

So the line is the config.h will read    #define MAG_DECLINATION XX.Xf //(**)

Software Configuration PDFs; Electronics, Wiring, and more

FLIP (MultiWii compatible flight controller) PDF

Electronics & Wiring Flip MWC Flight Controller 1.5 for UAV PDF

SimonK Firmware ESCs (Electronic Speed Controller)


V-Tail info & alternate Mixings

Pre-Configured MultiWii files
MultiWii_2_3 - FLIP - VTail - 

Many user don’t like the way MultWii is mixing the special tail configuration of the VTail. So they change
those mixing to something more optimal. It is greatly suggested to do it but it require to change the code
slightly prior to upload.
Those will change the mixing output to the motors and should give a more natural behaviour for the copter.
Our pre­setup files already have those changes done in the NewVTail.h file that is define in the config.h with
this line (#define MY_PRIVATE_MIXING "NewVTail.h")
If you want to start from scratch, here is how to do it.
You need to find this line in the Output.ccp tab:
#elif defined( VTAIL4 )
motor[0] = PIDMIX(+0,+1, +1); //REAR_R
motor[1] = PIDMIX(­1, ­1, +0); //FRONT_R
motor[2] = PIDMIX(+0,+1, ­1); //REAR_L
motor[3] = PIDMIX(+1, ­1, ­0); //FRONT_L
And replace it with one of those tested mix.
#elif defined( VTAIL4 )
// ­­­­­­­ Kipkool VTail's mixing ­­­­­­­
motor[0] = PIDMIX(+0,+1, +1); //REAR_R
motor[1] = PIDMIX(­1, ­1, ­0.64); //FRONT_R
motor[2] = PIDMIX(+0,+1, ­1); //REAR_L
motor[3] = PIDMIX(+1, ­1, +0.64); //FRONT_L
#elif defined( VTAIL4 )
// ­­­­­­­ BrandXPD VTail 400/500 mixing ­­­­­­­
motor[0] = PIDMIX(­.50,+.93,+1);//REAR_R
motor[1] = PIDMIX(­.77,­.50,­.91); //FRONT_R
motor[2] = PIDMIX(+.50,+.93,­1); //REAR_L
motor[3] = PIDMIX(+.77,­.50,+.91); //FRONT_L
#elif defined( VTAIL4 )
// ­­­­­­­ BrandXPD Mini­VTail mixing ­­­­­­­
motor[0] = PIDMIX(­.44,+.84,+1);//REAR_R
motor[1] = PIDMIX(­.75,­.44,­.81); //FRONT_R
motor[2] = PIDMIX(+.44,+.84,­1);//REAR_L
motor[3] = PIDMIX(+.77,­.44,+.81); //FRONT_L

Note: You can also define custom mixing table for odd shape copters.

Hardward Extras HOW-TO

Build in MWC LED Flasher - 

1. You will need normal LED strips and a  MWC Input / Output module

2. On the MWC Input / Output module connect 12V battery to the main input between the white connectors. 

3. Connect an normal LED strip to #7 port. 

4. Connect A7 to D7 on your Flight controller. You can use the MegaEZ 3.0 serial cable or 4- pin Serial cable (long) Dupont Ends to make this connection. 


5. Use the file from the Dropbox that says _LED_FLASHER in the name: or copy past this into your LED flasher section;

/******************************** LED FLASHER ***********************************/
#define LED_FLASHER_SEQUENCE 0b00000000 // leds OFF
#define LED_FLASHER_SEQUENCE_ARMED 0b00000101 // full illumination
#define LED_FLASHER_SEQUENCE_MAX 0b11111111      // create double flashes
#define LED_FLASHER_SEQUENCE_LOW 0b01010101 // Fast blinking every .125 seconds

6  There are four configurable light sequences.  Having a three way switch. you can controll two dffertent patterns in the air. (Low:normal ; Mid: LEDMAX ON; High: LEDMIN ON.

SEQUENCE is when the FC is powered up. (preflight and on the ground)  - DEFAULT : leds OFF

SEQUENCE_ARMED is when the motors are armed (normal flight) - DEFAULT : full illumination

SEQUENCE_MAX is toggled via auxiliary channel which is configured in the MultiWiiConf application as LEDMAX -  DEFAULT: create double flashes

SEQUENCE_MIN is toggled via auxiliary channel which is configured in the MultiWiiConf application as LEDMIN - DEFAULT : Fast blinking every .125 seconds

7. You can also connect a LED strip to port 6. Then connect A6 to the buzzer port so a dfferent part of LED section can light up on low votlage. See buzzer and Battery voltage monitor section for more details.

LED Ring- 

The Readytofly MWC LED Ring is very easy to connect and can connect to almost any Flght controller. 

1. Locate the Ground, Vin (power-5v), SDA, SCL port on the LED ring.

2. Use the MWC data/"SATA" cable, or 4- pin Serial cable (long) Dupont Ends or RTF RGB LED Ring SATA data Ez cable . Cable depending on your Flight controller. On the 4- pin Serial cable (long) Dupont Ends Red=power; Black=Ground.; Blue= 

3. Connect Ground, Vin ( power 5v), SDA, SCL  from the LED ring to the Ground, Vin ( power 5v), SDA, SCL ports on the Flight conrtoller .

 Do not mix up the SDA, SCL lines

4. Use the File from the DropBox that says ; _LEDRING. or copy paste this to your DFRobot LED RING section in config.h section

/***************** DFRobot LED RING *********************************/
/* I2C DFRobot LED RING communication */
#define LED_RING

Direct Satellite Receiver - 

Spektrum Satellites are 3V devices. DO NOT connect to 5V! For MEGA boards, attach sat grey wire to RX1. Sat black wire to ground. Sat orange wire to Mega board's 3.3V (or any other 3.3V source). For PROMINI, attach sat grey to RX0. Attach sat black to ground. */

1. You need to bind with a full RX. then unhook that satellite and connect it to the Fc

2. Use the File in the DropBox with the name "_Sat" or copy this to your config.h section ;

/********************** Spektrum Satellite Reciver *******************************/
#define SPEKTRUM 1024
//#define SPEKTRUM 2048
//#define SPEK_SERIAL_PORT 1 // Forced to 0 on Pro Mini and single serial boards; Set to your choice of 0, 1, or 2 on any Mega based board (defaults to 1 on Mega).

3. For  Pro Min boards like flip 1.5 You can not use the USB GUI and Direct Satellite Receiver at the same time. Use the OLED or Bluetooth to configure settings 



Good for a "lost alarm" or Low volatge warnings

1. It can connect directly to the D8 pin header using a regular male-to-male servo lead. Note that 12v is not needed so you can tie it to +5v on the board and it works fine.

2   Use the file in the Dropbox with the file name. _buzzer"  or copy this to your config  file .

/**** Buzzer ****/
#define BUZZER
#define RCOPTIONSBEEP // uncomment this if you want the buzzer to beep at any rcOptions change on channel Aux1 to Aux4
//#define ARMEDTIMEWARNING 330 // (*) Trigger an alarm after a certain time of being armed [s] to save you lipo (if your TX does not have a countdown)
//#define PILOTLAMP //Uncomment if you are using a X-Arcraft Pilot Lamp

3. and copy this this to your deh.h file . 

/**************************  all the Mega types  ***********************************/
#if defined(MEGA)
  #define LEDPIN_PINMODE             pinMode (13, OUTPUT);pinMode (30, OUTPUT);
  #define LEDPIN_TOGGLE              PINB  |= (1<<7); PINC  |= (1<<7);
  #define LEDPIN_ON                  PORTB |= (1<<7); PORTC |= (1<<7);
  #define LEDPIN_OFF                 PORTB &= ~(1<<7);PORTC &= ~(1<<7);
//  #define BUZZERPIN_PINMODE          pinMode (32, OUTPUT);
 #define BUZZERPIN_PINMODE DDRH |= (1<<5) ;

  #if defined PILOTLAMP
//    #define    PL_PIN_ON    PORTC |= 1<<5;
//    #define    PL_PIN_OFF   PORTC &= ~(1<<5);
 #define PL_PIN_ON PORTH |= (1<<5); #define PL_PIN_OFF PORTH &= ~(1<<5);
//    #define BUZZERPIN_ON            PORTC |= 1<<5;
//    #define BUZZERPIN_OFF           PORTC &= ~(1<<5);
 #define BUZZERPIN_ON PORTH |= (1<<5); #define BUZZERPIN_OFF PORTH &= ~(1<<5);

OLED Screen - 

Voltage Monitor -

PPM encoder - 


Pilot lamp -

1. Frist importent to upload the sketch before connecting the lamp or otherwise the PL would damage. If the buzzer was aktivated before, and you plug in the PL it gets 5Volt on signal and damaged.

2. use the Flies in the Dropbox named "_Pilot lamp" or copy this to your config.h 

/**** Buzzer ****/
//#define BUZZER
#define RCOPTIONSBEEP // uncomment this if you want the buzzer to beep at any rcOptions change on channel Aux1 to Aux4
//#define ARMEDTIMEWARNING 330 // (*) Trigger an alarm after a certain time of being armed [s] to save you lipo (if your TX does not have a countdown)
#define PILOTLAMP //Uncomment if you are using a X-Arcraft Pilot Lamp

3. Use the normal BUZZER pin D8. D8 signal, 5v, and GND go to the Pilot Lamp (just like the buzzer)

Phone Apps for GUI configuration

MultiWii EZ-GUI  - Android APP (Normal bluetooth needed)

Displays almost all available data from MultiWii copter in convenient way.

Join the G+ community and register as a tester to get latest alpha/beta versions:



Android MultiWii Configuration  - Android APP (Normal bluetooth needed)  

Android configuration tool for the MultiWii board. (2.3 stil in beta)



Multiwii Configurator - Apple Iphone (very special BLE Mini Bluetooth needed!)

 The Multiwii Configurator application lets you conveniently configure your Multiwii copter’s PID parameters from your iPhone, to make sure your copter is fully controllable in the air, and your flight is safe and fun.



Introducing BradWii - Open Source Multi-Copter Software

BradWii is open source multi-copter software. The name BradWii comes from the fact that many concepts and some code were borrowed from Multi-Wii. It's also a play on the original developer's name, Bradley (Call me Brad). Though based on Multi-Wii, BradWii is pretty much a complete re-write. BradWii is intended to be a platform on which other projects can be built.

Changing DX18/DX9 Model Avatars to a multicopter picture 

use Notepad++,  All you have to do is add a line in the model file (.SPM) . Acro mode.

VCode=" 1.04D"
; Originator="......."
PosIndex= 5
curveIndex= 7
modelImage= 8    <--ADD this line
Name="Agusta A109"
</Spektrum> to continue

more "older" MWC info here -

More how too:

Power a sevro for Tricopter  - picture - clips suppy 5 volts 

Shielding a gopro’s emi / rf noise -   with copper 

Magnetic Declination -  two ways to find it fast.

A.GeoMag and is free  - find yourself on the map.  at the bottom of the screen it will tell you.

B.  download MultiWii EZ-GUI on your android device, have a look at the GPS dashboard, it shows your current Magnetic Declination to 6 decimal places

 How to reflash burn a bootloader

 How To - Martinez Brushless Gimbal Controller Set-Up

Custom MultiWii Motor Mixes

MultiWii Mixing for TBS Discovery

The Beginner’s Guide to Multicopters



drvier install:

setup/config programs:

setup radio:


Top ten most sent e- mails 


uploading/modifying code (MAC) 

1) Connect the 5v to the FC  via USB  2) Download the Arduino software application - Open it/run it
3) Set the Tools->Serial Port->Com8  PC create artificial comm port No's - this takes a minute before the comm port appears (for Mac (providing you have installed the drivers (above) it will be instant - something like /dev/tty.usbserial-A8004Yt1 (7 digit alpha numeric) - if you see several listed pick the bottom one that has USB) - this selects the USB port you have the FC plugged in
4) Set the Tools->Board->Arduino Duemilanove  ATmega328 (FLIP) or MEGA for mega pro boards
importantly - see red outline above - shows correct board and a 7 digitiUSB port (mac) - PC will show Comm5 
5) Using Arduino App - > Only open and UPLOAD the main file which is always the 9th item -> red circle below -name may be different - but must be 9th TAB = the config.h file)
6) Now in Arduino - you will see the raw code(sketch)  written in Arduino code. (this code is pre-commented for) - Important - Black items are active - Grey items are not active - Go to Config.h TAB
7) for example delete the // infront of a line to activate it - so - to #define MINTHROTTLE 1180 for your Quad
(already done if I have sent you the code) delete the // infront of this line (only do this to one of the MINTHROTTLES)
8) Defined Copter type - such as # define QuadX ; or #define TRI  - if you want to define QUAD-X  change to #define QUADX (you have to deleted the // - this is called commenting it into code) - comment out the type that was there before //#define TRI
9) Define Yaw direction (for Tricopters)  #define YAW_DIRECTION 1 you can change this to the next line -1 t reverse it   #define YAW_DIRECTION -1.  Most types use +1 
10) To upload the new code (It wil overwrite everthing that was on the board before) File->Upload to I/O Board ; In the blue at the bottom you will see Uploading to I/O board ; after about 35secs it will say  Done Uploading in the blue bar at the bottom
  Tips to follow-
  1. Balance all Motors - dynamic - you must do this step.
  2. Balance all Props - static on a prop balancer and also dynamic by running them to check vibration and eliminate it - if you have not balanced your props you are an missing a key part - you will create a raft of problems for your IMU and your video productions - just do it and accept that this is part of multicopter culture and setup - Do not kid yourself.
  3. Check all Prop adapter collets and shafts are true - not bent - check each prop & motor combos are balanced and vibration free when running
  4. Mount all sensors on gel or gel foam tape - always - we recommend PU Gel or high end Helicopter mounting tape for the IMU - do not use the dji tape supplied - we dont
    Be sure to separate all electronic devices at least 90mm from other devices - Do not place the CPU or the IMU up close to ESC, GoPro or FPV gear!! Bad idea.  Monitor the Pilot LED lights at all times especially dji products for "white Sparking" in flight - ignoring or failing to understand vibration of interence issues is a classic noob trap. 
  5. Mount all GPS/MAG pods well away from all RMI ESC and the main LiPo - we built a tail section for our s800 for this - or use the DJI lollypop stick - but make sure it not blurred - ie vibrating
  6. Solder all wires with solder flux paste- don't use cored solder or weak soldering irons - we use a FAST 80w iron with a very large copper - the s800/z15 pulls ±32amps in hover at 25v  - we used XT60 (60 amp rating) but we take care to size them to make sure they are tight (not the plastic - the pins) - make sure the soldering is perfect either way by using flux paste and a really big (fast) iron head. XT60 can handle short burst of high temp but not long slow heat from small irons. 
  7. Set all failsafe channels and test them LIVE to check the stability of the RC signal - we set up a mix, to shift the modes channel to failsafe - with a switch
  8. Do a proper RC range check of the RC radio with all FPV gear powered on - dont get lazy and skip this check - its very important
  9. Test all FPV gear at 200m on the ground - establish which of the 8 freq. is the strongest at long range - Do not mount FPV antenna near RC in or near carbon
  10. Check all push connectors are firm - loose or soft connection cause engine/esc failure - for S800 and RC connectors use contact-X on all push on RC connectors - Esp in coastal zones
  11. Check all data line are 100% secure - tied but not pulling - For dji PCB pins - check none are loose or wiggling
  12. Check all props for fatigue cracks or stress fractures
  13. Do a pull test on all Props before every flight to check security - for s800 check the props tip-plane-path from the side
  14. Do post flight temp checks on all ESCs and all motors
  15. Telemetry Monitor every cell of the LiPo in flight with Quanum or similar - do not rely on total voltage alone
  16. Route all data lines well away from ESCs - for ESC this is easy as the ESC are under the motors
  17. Operate the CPU/IMU on a dedicated 3S DC bus for large multicopters - this isolates DC spikes from motors from effecting the CPU
  18. Check all wires for airframe shorting - dull down any sharp edges on carbon with a diamond file - pinched wires, cut or chaffed wires will cause major issues - check 
  19. Check the airframe is grounded to prevent static entering data lines - props create static - it has go somewhere
  20. Separate all RC receiver antenna wires by 90° and keep away from carbon structures - dont tape antenna near carbon landing gear
  21. For all push connectors - ie s800 booms or all RC plugs - use Inox or Corrosion-X or Deoxit Gold similar sprays to prevent corrosion - less is more - blow away excess with air gun nozzle
  22. Ground your aircraft at the slightest hint of abnormal ops of any component, motor hesitation or any other sign of human error or hanger rash
  23. Remove all risk - if you fly over a crowd of people the risk is falling - so don't fly over crowds or people or the ocean -   Wear safety glasses - props can cut
  24. Program and test GPS return to home - Wookm has no collision avoidance - be sure to set 50% throttle immediately it start to RTH - be 100% familiar with GPS over ride procedures and fly on MANUAL if req'd
  25. Never assume - problems come in groups - its never just one thing, if you find a problem - look again.  Make sure for Hexii that you understand IOC engine failure procedures
  26. Use loctite - Make sure the entire airframe is 100% rigid and secure - vibration can loosen flight critical parts
  27. Use a checklist and stick to it - all Pro-pilots use checklists - look for problems - Especially vibration - DO an IDLE vibration check before take off !  on every flight !
  28. Make 100% sure you ALWAYS see the LED signals - this is vital for "White Sparking" observations - if you ignore White sparking warnings via the LED  - you will suffer consequences
  29. Calibrate all sensors - often.  The GPS pod also contains a delicate MAG Compass - calibrate it in away from metal - all metal - including cars and houses.
  30. Weigh your Aircraft - use different GAINS for different weights - carry a scale - check the weight.
  31. Carry spare parts - that way if you have a problem - and are under the hammer to get t