All flight controllers flashed and tested with newest firmwre before shipping, Departing from Florida, U.S.A.  

The RTF Wiki

Lastest and Greatest

RaceFlight ONE now OPEN source: thank you Rs2k for all the hard work:

Try the newest  BF+K / Testing the Fast Kalman filter on Betaflight

The source code can be found here:
All previously released binaries can be found here:

FrSky & BetaFlight – Introduction of F.Port Protocol

Camera control Stick Commands:

MSP over Telemetry, e.g. Lua scripts for FrSky radios

BLHeliSuite32BETA 32

BLHeli_32 & BLHeli_S Suite Software and Firmware:

Download the newest and clean copy of Blheli32 suite and Blheli_s  here only here: = Suite & firmware for 32bit esc's (F0 CPUs only) Suite for 8bit & "BLHeli_s ESC's (328p,330,390,BB1,BB2 CPUs) 

Betaflight 3.3.3 firmware
Faster mirror:

Betaflight 3.3.3 milestones List

BetaFlight 3.3.0 GUI Betaflight configurator:

You need to get the latest Betaflight configurator from github
1. Clone the repo to any local directory or download it as zip
2. Start Chromium or Google Chrome and go to "More tools" -> extension
3. Check the "Developer mode" checkbox
4. Click on load unpacked extension and point it to the Betaflight Configurator directory (for example D:/betaflight-configurator)
A. If can also drag and drop the "chrome://extensions/"  

Note1: chrome has moved the extension in the "more tools" in the three dots menu . or just copy and paste. "chrome://extensions/" in your url bar.

Turn on the new dynamic filtering feature with  "feature DYNAMIC_FILTER"
also try : 
1. Remove both notch filters (notch 1&2 & dterm notch)
2. set dterm_lowpass_type = PT1
4. set debug_mode = FFT
5. Leave other filtering parameters default (D lpf 100, gyro lpf 90, no notch)
Filter recalibrates itself ~333 times per second. Always check motor temps regularly when trying new filtering settings.
A.set cpu_overclock = ON (F4 only)
B. set motor_pwm_protocol = DSHOT1200
C.set anti_gravity_gain = 5000

Note1: Omnibus F3 Users!!! Dynamic Filtering will not fit in memory by default so it is not include in the compile above. This special  firmware disables the transponder, but makes it able to turn on Dynamic Filtering for Omnibus F3  Download link here.
Note:2 make sure you set the correct number to your notch filters. notch1=0 notch2=100, if you set them wrong the quad would arm, but not react to anything. (because you are filtering everything.)
Note3: The dynamic filter is very processor intensive, all F3 users should advise to check there `tasks` in the CLI if enabling dynamic filtering. CPU load at idle should be lower the 25%.

Reverse prop direction in Betaflight 3.3.0:
The variable to change in the CLI has changed from;
set yaw_motor_direction = -1
set yaw_motors_reversed = ON

Note: triple check in the CLI . the setting is correct. Some bug reports 

Side Notes:
Note1: SD Card flight controller users should disable SDCard DMA with set sdcard_dma = off

BetaFlight 3.2 BlackBox Viewer:

You need the latest log viewer from here or it won't be able to read the log. (follow the instructions below to install )

Turtle Mode:

BetaFlight Anti-turtle mode Give it a try (with no loss of throttle resolution) ...

Cleanflight Software and Firmware:
Cleanflight is now Betaflight from 3.x.x. and supports OSD features, and the same great flying smooth "locked-in feeling, RX Super stable . Give it a Try! Support all the major Targets. It is 100% the same as betaflight 3.0.1, and Dominic has even improved and tweaked it to be super stable and reliable.

Drivers and DUF fixers: Windows Driver is stuck ?
A. Try the Driver fixer :

Black Box logging and usage information :

beta-flight osd stick command:  Throttle stick mid, Yaw stick left, Pitch stick up (The menu should appear within 1 second.)

To access the BETA-Flight OSD menu



MultiWii home Page -  - MultiWii forums

 mwosd  OSD

 Source Code & GUI - The code source is stored on a google code repository:

MultiWii WinGUI is a .NET based configuration and GCS interface for the famous MultiWii multicopter controller software.

It does not intend to replace the original MultiWiiConf utility, but trying to offer a richer user experience by sacrificing multi platform capabilities.

Googel Chrome Extension - Cool crossplatform configurator -Configurator app build primarily for baseflight flight software.


Stick combination summary (Print this page! study!)

READ AND PRINT ME!   and  Stick combinations "quick" 

ALL boards usb DriverUSB Driver Download Here ;

Motor PINOUT ;  MEGA Motor layout - Here; Pro-Mini Motor layout Here : MEGA Motor layout 2 - Here


Radio Settings 

No file for a DX6i; Here is pictures of the screens you need to fly 

SpectrumRC files! load it on the SD card, import, bind and fly. 

Downloads: DX7s File ; DX8 File; DX9 File ; DX18 File 

 Quick "HOW To RE-Flash' your board back to default .PDF Download

 Quick ""how to" for the mac down at the bottom of this page

Spectrum setup videos at the bottom of this  page: 

Futaba Guys please watch this video !  video of Futaba T14SG radio setup 

TRIcopter SETUP video with flip 1.5 -  video of flip 1.5  specific to the tricopter

FLIP 1.5 For Dummies  -  everything one needs to know to setup and tune 

How to Setup KV OSD MinimOSD- video with "Naze32" but this is the same Flip32

Flip32 or Flip32+ setup/help video How to set up a Return to Home Failsafe - video is different board, but all the info is 100% the same

RTH Failsafe - How to set up a Return to Home Failsafe

Forum Threads

MultiWii PRO 1.0 Flight Controller w/ GPS Option 

MWC Thread - MegaPirate code thread - Last thread

MultiWii PRO 2.0 Flight Controller w/ GPS Option - thread for MultiWii

MultiWii PRO 3.0EZ Flight Controller w/ GPS Option

The Flip Pro MWC Flight contoller

The Flip 1.5

older HISTORY THREADs - rainy day reading  -original MultiWiiCopter thread Old "HOWTO" overview  - Quadrocopter WiiCopter -WiiCopter "Config &Settings" - BuildLog  ArduWiino NK - PID tuning theory


 Quick Start

  1. Download PC 32bit(even if you run 64bit) or Mac OSX DOWNLOAD HERE - install on your PC or Mac - then shut down fully - wait 1 min - restart to activate the USB driver
  2. Download Arduino 1.0.3 Here - this is important for PC users, even if you don't use it as it contains the driver libraries - different version - each works with Mac, MacBook or PC win 7/8
  3. Browse our custom sketches on your boards product page.  Download the driver, and GUI from dropbox
  4. Install JAVA from HERE - then restart your PC/Mac - connect the FC Micro USB to your PC USB . GUI requires Java is installed and running - 
  5. Download the match v2.3 GUI java app HERE - Open the file called MultiWiiConf.exe (PC ; or (Mac OSX)  
  6. Connect your USB  to the FC 
  7. Turn on your Radio Tx transmitter .  Start MultiwiiConf. or wungui
  8. Some Receivers my need full 5v from UBEC to power 
  9. Select the com port 
  10.  Wait 5 secs ; then press START
  11. Wait another 3secs and press READ
  12. Calibration in the GUI - The FC  arrives with GYRO and Acc already calibrated - sitting on your desk the ACC numbers should be approx 0/0/250 - if the board is tilt a little they will be similar to this 16/-19/252 - be careful not to un-do whats already done by clicking calibrate wildly or randomly ! - The IMU arrow faces forwards - The Gyro and the Acc can be re-calibrated (in the future if needed) in the GUI by holding the IMU at 0.00° level - motionless for 5 secs - click-pressing CALIB_ACC - not moving - after about 6 secs you will see the Acc data will reset and show 0/0/250 approx 
  13.  Press CALIB_MAG - in the next 60 secs the entire Quad needs to be rotated one turn on X,Y & Z axis within 60secs of pressing CALIB_MAG ( this is best done with the stick commands)
  14. Now look at the top right Blue-on light Blue-bars - each one will move in conjunction with your RC Tx - when sticks are centred the reading should be 1500 . When the throttle is placed at idle/off - the THROT should bead <1100 usually 1090 approx - at full the throttle should read 1905 approx - also check the other three sticks are 1095/1500/1905 approx - if you purchased your radio from us this is already done for you.
  15. Set your Tx to ACRO (basic Airplane) mode - set PPM (not PCM), Activate Ch5 (Gear-Mode) Read your Tx/Rx product manuals 
  16. Set your Reverse:  for spectrum THR=NORMAL ;AIL=REVERSE ;ELE=NORMAL;RUD=REVERSE (the light blue bars  MUST move in the same direction as the stick you are moving - If they do not then REVERSE that Ch in your Tx.  So if you move the throttle stick up - then the blue Throttle bar should move up.  If you move your rudder right then the YAW bar should move right)
  17.  Set the Tx stick ranges (done on transmitter) - "End points/travel" Setup mainly involves the accurate checking or adjusting of your RC Tx - called Transmitter calibration !  DO NOT SKIP THIS first STEP - the very first thing you must do for your first board is Calibrate your Transmitter to give accurate PWM output range - every transmitter is slightly different - Create a new model memory on the Tx and Call it MWC. you will see that changes made on the Tx menu are sent to the FC via your Rx - and actual critical uSEC readings - 1015/1500mid/1985 can be set. If you cannot get it exact then use 1000/1500/2000.  Flight controller is a digital interface and the software running invisibly inside requires very specific digital PWM uSEC numbers to hover 100% auto-level, arm, disarm etc.  So this may seem a bit weird but you will be using/pressing buttons on your Tx whilst your eyes are looking at your PC or Mac.  So move all sticks to the center - set all Tx trims to neutral - Now use SUB TRIM MENU on your Tx to set all mid points to 1500 on these blue bars.  Then move, one at a time,move each stick to the low position and set 1015; then move each stick/switch to the high position and set 1985.  Then go back and check all your midpoints are still 1500    Do this for all sticks and switches.  (see videos below)
  18. There are 3 windows in the GUI - - Check settings, change if needed
  19.  Arm by rudder max right while throttle min.
    - Disarm by rudder max left while throttle min
    - If the quad flips on motor start up, you've plugged motors in incorrectly.
    - If it doesn't fly (no lift), you've got the props installed incorrectly.
  20. - Keep props off until ready for first flight.
    - Calibrate ESCs, check motor wiring for correct rotation... see diagrams on bag or website.
    - Make sure to connect motors correctly to flight controller, should be a label with diagram on the antistatic bag or check the product page for links and diagrams
  21. IF the GUI cannot read USB after connected. - Quit the GUI and restart if nessary - If you see any unusual settings after calibrations - always restart the GUI and re-power the FC - if you see something strange - STOP - power cycle the FC and re-start the GUI - FIRST - then investigate further.
  22.  Changes to the GUI switches - a white square means "active" - grey means inactive - click the upper left side of any square to activate it - then to save that change, press WRITE. To change the value of a number - Click->drag it with your mouse. Then press WRITE.
  23.  Advanced users - if you are doing Arduino code commenting - Always clear EEPROM twice, if/before loading new  specific sketch code. Beginners - NEVER reload code - chances are the code is wrong and you will create problems you cannot solve.
  24.  Keep your PROPS OFF - not installed - until you are fully conversant/understand in full the functions of your Tx in full including TRAV (end Points), the arm and disarm procedures -  realise that for skiping or out-of-order set-up steps or moving sticks, or even static -  PROPS may start at anytime without warning.  Never install props prior to calibration of the ESC and testing the gyro orientation, and arm/disarm testing of the board - YOU are responsible - make sure your actions and your Copter is safe.  Never ASSUME the props will not start -removing the props removes the risk.
  25. Motor conections and rotation directions - The engine numbers relate to the small white text (called silk) printed on the bottom or top side of the Flight controllers next to the pins for the ESC - to reverse the direction of a motor swap any 2 of the 3 motor wires over.
  26.  If the ESC's beep-non-stop then they are not connected to the PARIS board ESC pins or the Rx is incorrectly connected or the Rx/PARIS sees you do not have your throttle to zero.
  27. If your copter goes out of radio-range it may cause harm - if still powered - Take the precaution to program in the FAILSAFE condition to protect people/property
  28. Always maiden on default PIDs' - If the copter is not almost perfect on default PID's then DO NOT go straight to altering the PID's!  Copters require good quality ESCs such as F-20 fire or blue ice then do full calibrations of all the ESCs, the correct timing set/programmed into the ESCs and lastly good quality wiring and soldering (not 3.5mm press fit connectors if possible ) - Use FLUX PASTE to complete all soldered wires. 
  29. If your getting squirrelly behavior after updating code - and it seems very unusual to you as an experienced flyer - (like an alien flying your copter not you ) - it possible the eeprom is corrupted - so just clear it out - clearing the eeprom - note down your old PIDS or do a screen capture of them - Fire up Arduino to load MultiWii 2.3 Arduino>File>Examples>EEPROM>eeprom_clear   ; upload

Arming - Learn to recognize that your Copter is ARMED.   Hold right Yaw (or right cyclic) for 1 sec - you will see the LED come on - stays on SOLID

Disarming - Learn to DISARM the ESC's before touching or approaching the Copter ESC's/Motors can start suddenly and the props can cut fingers and eyes - permanent injuries!! so With THRO OFF ; Hold the YAW stick LEFT for 1 sec ; then the CPU LED will go OUT and stay out

Gyro Calibration - Disarm the copter (see above) ; Place the Copter on a perfectly LEVEL LZ - it must be completely static - Check all Tx Trims =  neutral - Stand back - With THRO off, Hold the YAW LEFT and the Cyclic stick Back for 1 Sec ;  release - you will see the  LED blinking fast for a few secs then go out 

Accelerometer (Acc) Calibration - The FC is calibrated before shipping, at 25°C - However  if you Flights are at a different temp a temp bias can be introduced need a re-cal, so for your Ops temp set the Copter level 0.00° Confirm the DISARMED LED is OFF - Hold Full THRO/YAW LEFT and the Cyclic stick Back for 1 Sec ;  release - you will see the GREEN LED blinking fast for a few secs then go out - The Acc is now calibrated for LEVEL mode (at this ambient temperature)

Accelerometer (Acc) 2° Trimming - Also called auto-LEVEL trimming - Land - The final ACC trimming procedure is this -DISARM - the Green LED will go OFF) Move the THRO to the 'Learn Position - full up) - in this example the copter was moving back and right - so ; using stick-banging - move the cyclic (right stick) up once (led blinks) - then left once (led blinks) - these alterations are saved to the CPU memory.  ARM again - hover and repeat the process until the copter hovers 'level'.  Each Stick-bang = 0.1°

Flight MODES

ACRO - Gyros only mode - sometimes called full-manual mode or acro mode - in this mode the gyros prevent disturbance from wind and turbulence but do NOT interfere with pilot inputs - its a crisp and responsive mode - absolute best mode for amazing flying

ARM - we recommend not arming by switch unless your running a Tricopter 

ANGLE - - self leveling mode -  activates the Accelerometer - Great for learning FPV and hovering. You can not Flip this mode- its a required mode for RTH or PTH

HORIZON - new multiWii mode - stable mode - so when the cyclic stick is near the centre the Acc is activated (self leveling) - but when you want to fly fast forward or even do Acrobatic flips and you push the cyclic controls toward the edges - then its gyros only

BARO - First set the aircraft in the hover at 50% throttle - then engage BARO switch - the autopilot will power the motors up/down to hold the Altitude based on barometric pressure - Do NOT take off and fly around on BARO -- if exposed to airflow (no dome is used) then cover the BARO with black felt - this prevent erroneous barometric pressure waves from speed or wind entering the BARO.

MAG - Compass or heading locks yaw in the hover - be sure you have 1500 setup as the RC Tx Rudder ! check your GUI - use manual tilt to trim residual yaw out in early test flights - then when the rudder or yaw stick is centred - engage MAG - this will lock the heading. We don't recommend flying around with MAG on - reason - MAG will lock out if bank angle exceeds 20°. Mag is useful for doing towering climbs or descents where you are flat - and trying to shoot facing one direction - be sure to tune your airframe (by engine inclination) so you have zero latent yaw.

HEADFREE - this requires you mount the MAG - away from all magnetic interference -

HEADADJ - allows you to re-align headfree lock position

GPS HOME - setup /NGLE and GPS home on the same switch position - BARO also if you prefer - then use this to fly home - will return to the position where it was last armed - does NOT control throttle so be sure to use enough power to fly/hover. - it is not fully autonomous and does not control motors - this is a good thing as it allows the pilot to make inputs to avoid obstacles.

GPS HOLD - Sometimes called Loitering - or sky-parking - yes - if you really depend on this type of thing (noobs) then it's going to be better to run the PARIS v5 under

OSD - allows you to toggle OSD on or OFF with a switch in flight.

Changing the Yaw rate to 0.3 increases the turn speed

HEADFREE/CAREFREE - Head-free mode is great for beginners who aren't used to projecting their mind into the plane's perspective. Head free (or Care free) mode uses the compass and your last known position to transform the transmitter stick input from your perspective into the perspective of the copter. For most beginner pilots this is the toughest part, imagining in your minds eye, you are sitting in the copter and facing the same direction. Head-free mode removes this burden! The copter control software, knowing where you are, adjusts the stick input so that roll left is always left on the copter from your perspective and roll right is always right, and the same with the pitch. You take away the notion of a "front" on the copter, there is no front anymore!

  1.  set the copter down you are behind the copter and it‘s front is facing ahead of me in the same direction.
  2. Plug in the quad . Then arm/ At this point the heads-free mode records my position as being behind the copter.
  3. Back up a number of paces staying behind the copter, maknig sure to keep the same direction.
  4. Take off and activate head free mode. . The trick is to never move your feet out of your "headfree- set point". Always keep the system in frount of you at all times!

The AUX Mode Matrix

The 3-way toggle switch is in the top position, then the AUX1 channel in MultiWii GUI shows LOW (1000us), see the Receiver Channels box in the diagram below.   Auto-Level (ANGLE mode) is  enable . Thus in the Flight Mode Matrix below AUX1 has 1 white box in the first column (titled LOW) at the row labeled ANGLE. The 3-way is in the middle position AUX1 shows MID (1500us). HORIZON mode is now enable the white box in the AUX1 second column (MID) at the row labeled HORIZON. With the 3-way at the bottom, AUX1 shows HIGH. I want this to not enable any modes and thus be Acrobat mode.  Clear out any white boxes in the 3rd column (HIGH) of AUX1. Currently The switch in the top/LOW position, ANGLE mode is activated and thus lit green.


Perfecting auto-level performance / How to trim auto-level mode

Auto-level flight requires a properly calibrated accellerometer. The FC's accellerometer is calibrated at the factory but you can also repeat the calibration process in the MultiWii GUI. In any case, a desk or a floor is not perfectly level so some adjustment of this calibration will have to be done in-flight. There is a method to tuning the accellerometer (auto-level) in the field. This must be done after trimming the transmitter though otherwise you are just trying to correct one error with another. So with acc pre-calibrated and your transmitter already trimmed previously in gyro/acro mode do the following:

  1. Enable LEVEL mode using the aux switch on your transmitter. You should have already setup LEVEL mode on one of your AUX channels/switches. 
  2. Arm the copter and take off. Try to maintain level flight, if level is not perfect you will have to counteract the error with some stick input.
  3. Same as with acro try to keep the copter level and note how much roll/pitch stick you need to put in to correct the error.
  4. Now land the copter and disarm motors (throttle all the way back, roll all the way left)
  5. Now with motors disarmed, slowing move throttle all the way to max (motors will not spin if copter is properly disarmed). Move throttle slowly just in case motor disarm failed. With the throttle at maximum, the copter is waiting for command input to adjust the ACC level.
  6. If the copter was pitching forward (going away from you), then:
    • a. Pull full back on the pitch.
    • b.Then return to center
    • c.Repeat a number of times, the more times you repeat the more correction it will make but it only does it in a single small increments for each “full back, and return to center” sequence. Repeating 3-4 times is not really noticeable (only a slight correction). I often have to start with 10-12 increments for the first correction. Then test fly, and repeat the process with another 3-5 increments.
  7. Now you can do the roll, same process:
    • a.All the way left or right, then return to center
    • b.Only do a correction for a single direction at a time…diagonal correction input does not work.
  8. After doing a number of increments for Roll and Pitch. With the P/R stick at center, return the throttle back to full low. Re-arm the motors and test fly. Repeat until the copter maintains level.
  9. Do not do the ACC calibration from MultiWii again or you will lose this calibration. The copter will remember your calibration settings so once trimmed your auto-level should perform perfectly and you won't have to repeat this tutorial until you upgrade your copter Firmware.


In the ACC calibration you want to hold the board very still while the calibration process is performed. With MAG calibration the complete opposite is true, you want to reach every possible orientation possibly within the 30 second calibration time frame. this is the biggest mistake new users make in MAG calibration, they keep the FC perfectly still and 30 seconds later the compass heading starts behaving very strangely.

When you are ready hit the CALIB_MAG button. ( we recomend you do this with Bluetooth or stick commend) DO NOT ATTEMPT WITH A USB CABLE! It will not work well!  This starts the calibration process and you now have 30 seconds to orientation the board in as many positions as possible. Notice the light blinks very fast to indicate the MAG calibration is in progress. The calibration process is not picky as to which way you move about through the different orientations, but here is a good step by step to achieve good calibration:

Begin by rotating the copter 360 degrees passing through North, East, South and West.
Now flip the board over 360 degrees in the roll axis, then undo the flip back to normal.
Now flip the board end-over-end in the pitch axis a complete 360 degrees, then undo the flip back to normal
Now wave the board around in the air as if you were actually flying around outside, back and forth, side to side, up and down.
Stop when the  light stops blinking and returns to normal,
You are now fully calibrated! 

Make sure to not have any ferromagnetic materials with you during calibration, such as keys, Rc Radio or cell phone!

More Quick Tips 

Do not move the model while plugging in the battery and during
the first few seconds after power-up. Gyro must be idle, or else
initial calibration will be wrong. Alternatively, make sure to
execute the “Gyro Calibration” stick sequence prior to arming.

First flight should always be in gyro-only mode. Do not enable auto-level, baro, headfree, etc
If model immediately flips on take off, double-check board orientation (front facing), each
motor number, rotation direction, and type of prop installed.

Trim transmitter once, and never trim in-flight. Connect to GUI,
and subtrim on transmitter until all channels are centered at 1500.
If using Futaba gear, center might be 1520. In that case, set midrc value in config to
1520, then subtrim to center all channels at 1520. Do not use trim in flight for either gyro
or auto-level mode. Use acc-trim function.

Cover the barometer with open-cell foam and keep it away from direct sunlight. Placing the
flight controller in a plastic enclosure of some kind is recommended.

Magnetic Declination -  two ways to find it fast. - very important 

A. Download GeoMag and is free  - find yourself on the map.  at the bottom of the screen it will tell you.

B.  download MultiWii EZ-GUI on your android device, have a look at the GPS dashboard, it shows your current Magnetic Declination to 6 decimal places

So the line is the config.h will read    #define MAG_DECLINATION XX.Xf //(**)

Software Configuration PDFs; Electronics, Wiring, and more

FLIP (MultiWii compatible flight controller) PDF

Electronics & Wiring Flip MWC Flight Controller 1.5 for UAV PDF

SimonK Firmware ESCs (Electronic Speed Controller)


V-Tail info & alternate Mixings

Pre-Configured MultiWii files
MultiWii_2_3 - FLIP - VTail - 

Many user don’t like the way MultWii is mixing the special tail configuration of the VTail. So they change
those mixing to something more optimal. It is greatly suggested to do it but it require to change the code
slightly prior to upload.
Those will change the mixing output to the motors and should give a more natural behaviour for the copter.
Our pre­setup files already have those changes done in the NewVTail.h file that is define in the config.h with
this line (#define MY_PRIVATE_MIXING "NewVTail.h")
If you want to start from scratch, here is how to do it.
You need to find this line in the Output.ccp tab:
#elif defined( VTAIL4 )
motor[0] = PIDMIX(+0,+1, +1); //REAR_R
motor[1] = PIDMIX(­1, ­1, +0); //FRONT_R
motor[2] = PIDMIX(+0,+1, ­1); //REAR_L
motor[3] = PIDMIX(+1, ­1, ­0); //FRONT_L
And replace it with one of those tested mix.
#elif defined( VTAIL4 )
// ­­­­­­­ Kipkool VTail's mixing ­­­­­­­
motor[0] = PIDMIX(+0,+1, +1); //REAR_R
motor[1] = PIDMIX(­1, ­1, ­0.64); //FRONT_R
motor[2] = PIDMIX(+0,+1, ­1); //REAR_L
motor[3] = PIDMIX(+1, ­1, +0.64); //FRONT_L
#elif defined( VTAIL4 )
// ­­­­­­­ BrandXPD VTail 400/500 mixing ­­­­­­­
motor[0] = PIDMIX(­.50,+.93,+1);//REAR_R
motor[1] = PIDMIX(­.77,­.50,­.91); //FRONT_R
motor[2] = PIDMIX(+.50,+.93,­1); //REAR_L
motor[3] = PIDMIX(+.77,­.50,+.91); //FRONT_L
#elif defined( VTAIL4 )
// ­­­­­­­ BrandXPD Mini­VTail mixing ­­­­­­­
motor[0] = PIDMIX(­.44,+.84,+1);//REAR_R
motor[1] = PIDMIX(­.75,­.44,­.81); //FRONT_R
motor[2] = PIDMIX(+.44,+.84,­1);//REAR_L
motor[3] = PIDMIX(+.77,­.44,+.81); //FRONT_L

Note: You can also define custom mixing table for odd shape copters.

Hardward Extras HOW-TO

Build in MWC LED Flasher - 

1. You will need normal LED strips and a  MWC Input / Output module

2. On the MWC Input / Output module connect 12V battery to the main input between the white connectors. 

3. Connect an normal LED strip to #7 port. 

4. Connect A7 to D7 on your Flight controller. You can use the MegaEZ 3.0 serial cable or 4- pin Serial cable (long) Dupont Ends to make this connection. 


5. Use the file from the Dropbox that says _LED_FLASHER in the name: or copy past this into your LED flasher section;

/******************************** LED FLASHER ***********************************/
#define LED_FLASHER_SEQUENCE 0b00000000 // leds OFF
#define LED_FLASHER_SEQUENCE_ARMED 0b00000101 // full illumination
#define LED_FLASHER_SEQUENCE_MAX 0b11111111      // create double flashes
#define LED_FLASHER_SEQUENCE_LOW 0b01010101 // Fast blinking every .125 seconds

6  There are four configurable light sequences.  Having a three way switch. you can controll two dffertent patterns in the air. (Low:normal ; Mid: LEDMAX ON; High: LEDMIN ON.

SEQUENCE is when the FC is powered up. (preflight and on the ground)  - DEFAULT : leds OFF

SEQUENCE_ARMED is when the motors are armed (normal flight) - DEFAULT : full illumination

SEQUENCE_MAX is toggled via auxiliary channel which is configured in the MultiWiiConf application as LEDMAX -  DEFAULT: create double flashes

SEQUENCE_MIN is toggled via auxiliary channel which is configured in the MultiWiiConf application as LEDMIN - DEFAULT : Fast blinking every .125 seconds

7. You can also connect a LED strip to port 6. Then connect A6 to the buzzer port so a dfferent part of LED section can light up on low votlage. See buzzer and Battery voltage monitor section for more details.

LED Ring- 

The Readytofly MWC LED Ring is very easy to connect and can connect to almost any Flght controller. 

1. Locate the Ground, Vin (power-5v), SDA, SCL port on the LED ring.

2. Use the MWC data/"SATA" cable, or 4- pin Serial cable (long) Dupont Ends or RTF RGB LED Ring SATA data Ez cable . Cable depending on your Flight controller. On the 4- pin Serial cable (long) Dupont Ends Red=power; Black=Ground.; Blue= 

3. Connect Ground, Vin ( power 5v), SDA, SCL  from the LED ring to the Ground, Vin ( power 5v), SDA, SCL ports on the Flight conrtoller .

 Do not mix up the SDA, SCL lines

4. Use the File from the DropBox that says ; _LEDRING. or copy paste this to your DFRobot LED RING section in config.h section

/***************** DFRobot LED RING *********************************/
/* I2C DFRobot LED RING communication */
#define LED_RING

Direct Satellite Receiver - 

Spektrum Satellites are 3V devices. DO NOT connect to 5V! For MEGA boards, attach sat grey wire to RX1. Sat black wire to ground. Sat orange wire to Mega board's 3.3V (or any other 3.3V source). For PROMINI, attach sat grey to RX0. Attach sat black to ground. */

1. You need to bind with a full RX. then unhook that satellite and connect it to the Fc

2. Use the File in the DropBox with the name "_Sat" or copy this to your config.h section ;

/********************** Spektrum Satellite Reciver *******************************/
#define SPEKTRUM 1024
//#define SPEKTRUM 2048
//#define SPEK_SERIAL_PORT 1 // Forced to 0 on Pro Mini and single serial boards; Set to your choice of 0, 1, or 2 on any Mega based board (defaults to 1 on Mega).

3. For  Pro Min boards like flip 1.5 You can not use the USB GUI and Direct Satellite Receiver at the same time. Use the OLED or Bluetooth to configure settings 



Good for a "lost alarm" or Low volatge warnings

1. It can connect directly to the D8 pin header using a regular male-to-male servo lead. Note that 12v is not needed so you can tie it to +5v on the board and it works fine.

2   Use the file in the Dropbox with the file name. _buzzer"  or copy this to your config  file .

/**** Buzzer ****/
#define BUZZER
#define RCOPTIONSBEEP // uncomment this if you want the buzzer to beep at any rcOptions change on channel Aux1 to Aux4
//#define ARMEDTIMEWARNING 330 // (*) Trigger an alarm after a certain time of being armed [s] to save you lipo (if your TX does not have a countdown)
//#define PILOTLAMP //Uncomment if you are using a X-Arcraft Pilot Lamp

3. and copy this this to your deh.h file . 

/**************************  all the Mega types  ***********************************/
#if defined(MEGA)
  #define LEDPIN_PINMODE             pinMode (13, OUTPUT);pinMode (30, OUTPUT);
  #define LEDPIN_TOGGLE              PINB  |= (1<<7); PINC  |= (1<<7);
  #define LEDPIN_ON                  PORTB |= (1<<7); PORTC |= (1<<7);
  #define LEDPIN_OFF                 PORTB &= ~(1<<7);PORTC &= ~(1<<7);
//  #define BUZZERPIN_PINMODE          pinMode (32, OUTPUT);
 #define BUZZERPIN_PINMODE DDRH |= (1<<5) ;

  #if defined PILOTLAMP
//    #define    PL_PIN_ON    PORTC |= 1<<5;
//    #define    PL_PIN_OFF   PORTC &= ~(1<<5);
 #define PL_PIN_ON PORTH |= (1<<5); #define PL_PIN_OFF PORTH &= ~(1<<5);
//    #define BUZZERPIN_ON            PORTC |= 1<<5;
//    #define BUZZERPIN_OFF           PORTC &= ~(1<<5);
 #define BUZZERPIN_ON PORTH |= (1<<5); #define BUZZERPIN_OFF PORTH &= ~(1<<5);

OLED Screen - 

Voltage Monitor -

PPM encoder - 


Pilot lamp -

1. Frist importent to upload the sketch before connecting the lamp or otherwise the PL would damage. If the buzzer was aktivated before, and you plug in the PL it gets 5Volt on signal and damaged.

2. use the Flies in the Dropbox named "_Pilot lamp" or copy this to your config.h 

/**** Buzzer ****/
//#define BUZZER
#define RCOPTIONSBEEP // uncomment this if you want the buzzer to beep at any rcOptions change on channel Aux1 to Aux4
//#define ARMEDTIMEWARNING 330 // (*) Trigger an alarm after a certain time of being armed [s] to save you lipo (if your TX does not have a countdown)
#define PILOTLAMP //Uncomment if you are using a X-Arcraft Pilot Lamp

3. Use the normal BUZZER pin D8. D8 signal, 5v, and GND go to the Pilot Lamp (just like the buzzer)

Phone Apps for GUI configuration

MultiWii EZ-GUI  - Android APP (Normal bluetooth needed)

Displays almost all available data from MultiWii copter in convenient way.

Join the G+ community and register as a tester to get latest alpha/beta versions:



Android MultiWii Configuration  - Android APP (Normal bluetooth needed)  

Android configuration tool for the MultiWii board. (2.3 s